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Three little-known winter paradises in eastern Québec
Québec boasts some 75 downhill ski resorts. Some are very well known. Others, not so much. And yet, among the latter, you’ll find some genuine snowy paradises. Here are three of my favourites among Eastern Québec’s little-known resorts.
Mont Miller
I’ve skied in Europe, Japan, Africa, the Andes, the Canadian and American Rockies, and New England, and I swear that Mont Miller ranks in my top 10 skiing experiences of all time. Why?
Because Murdochville (where it’s located) gets so much snow that snowdrifts are sometimes higher than the houses. We’re talking about 7 m of snow per year (you read that right!) on the 32 trails (11 of which are glades). On February 16, 2017, 120 cm of snow fell, the most ever in one 24-hour period in Québec.
The site is just as suitable for beginners as it is for those who like to take risks, or who appreciate the kind of skiing that used to be practised here (the resort hasn’t changed since it opened in 1964).
At an altitude of 858 m, the summit offers a 270 m vertical drop. The scenery in central Gaspésie is breathtaking. And if you want to ski the second summit, you can either hike or equip your skis with skins. Guided off-piste skiing and heliskiing are also available. The resort is only open from Friday to Sunday, as well as during the holidays and spring break. Booking accommodation in a tourist residence or private home is a must.
Website: chic-chac.com
Pin Rouge
The Massif de Charlevoix isn’t the only ski resort with an ocean view. At Pin Rouge, in New Richmond, Gaspésie, the view of Chaleur Bay is just as captivating.
This family-friendly ski resort also offers guided alpine touring (equipment included), snow tubing, snowshoeing and dog sledding. There are 27 trails, one of which is 3.5 km long, with a vertical drop of 480 m—the highest in eastern Québec—and a few ungroomed walls. The design of the trails, which are often narrow and sometimes cut through a pine forest, is exceptional, and the occasional glades are incredible.
Pin Rouge is peaceful. Deer often graze near the lifts and blue jays hover close to skiers.
Website: pinrouge.com
Val-d’Irène
Located in the Matapedia Valley, Val-d’Irène regional park has two slopes with 26 trails featuring 100% natural snow: one for families, the other reserved for experienced skiers. I remember triggering an avalanche and clinging to some roots to avoid a tragedy. Fear not, bad news is rare at this resort, nestled in exceptionally snowy, though unpatrolled off-piste terrain. A glorious cross-country trail leads right up to the chalet. With a vertical drop of 274 m and a brand-new snow park, it offers every kind of sliding challenge, from the most cautious to the most extreme.
Website: valdi.ski
